People wear watches to remind themselves to hurry up. However, for Hermès, watches are never just a tool for measuring time, but a piece of art that tells stories. The artisans use the time and painstaking effort to perfect the art masterpieces. Every snippet of story has been spoken over the years. Arceau Pocket Astrolabe
品牌 The Hermès brand is elegant, timeless, and will not follow the wave. While other fashion brands keep making complication watches every year, Hermès made Time Suspended last year, which seems to suspend time, and this year’s works return to the pursuit of beauty, look at the style of drawing on the pocket watch. It’s like trying to bring us into the fantasy world of fairy tales.
Astrolabe comes from Greek, meaning star-taker. The astrolabe is an ancient astronomical instrument that measures the horizontal distance between the sun and other planets, and the speed of each star can be used to measure the accurate time. The overlapping rings on the astrolabe are the astronomical trajectories imagined by ancient astronomers. This provided designer Pierre Marie with inspiration for the design of this pocket watch; and in order to show the inextricable relationship between light and time, the table The horoscope pattern decoration on the case back is specially made by rare openwork enamel. In fact, the enamel technology has been used on watches for more than 100 years. This time, the enamel technique that is used less on the back cover of pocket watches is less commonly used. In general enamel technique, whether it is filled with enamel, filigree enamel or micro-painted enamel, the glaze will be attached to the metal tire. It is extremely difficult to leave the glaze inside the pane without the metal tire as the bottom. Also, because there is no bottom tire, the finished product has extremely high light transmittance, just like the glass of church windows.
When making Pocket Astrolabe’s astrolabe pattern, the craftsman pinched gold lines along the engraving pattern to create spaces in the outline of the astrolabe, then filled the spaces with different shades of blue enamel, and repeatedly fired them in a kiln at 800 ° C, one by one. The crystal clear and bright colors are fired. During the period, the gold flakes shaped like a small moon are embedded in a central enamel glaze. The metal tire is removed after the last round of firing. The entire enamel is like a light-transmitting mini Stained glass, and finally the whole piece is inlaid on the platinum case back. Without any support, when light passes through, different blue, pine green and indigo blue and silver astrolabe patterns come to life. It is a gift of time for Hermès.
The pocket watch is equipped with the H1928 automatic movement developed exclusively for the brand by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. It is full of classic beauty in a 48mm white gold case, connected with stirrup-shaped lugs, a large blue fire enamel dial, and an indigo alligator leather strap. One for about 250,000 Swiss francs.
What is more precious than being unique?
This time, Hermès’ Exceptional Timepieces enamel works are still produced by the enamel master Anita Porchet. Each style is made only one. Arceau Pocket Astrolabe is fortunate to stay in Hong Kong and Macau. The following styles are temporarily in other corners of the world, but as long as you like It is not impossible to take them all home. Arceau Pocket Amazones.
This pocket watch incorporates ancient crafts such as the Great Fire Enamel, micro-painting and paillonné. The hour and minute hands dance on the Great Fire Enamel dial. The dial is painted with a micro-painting pattern of an eighteenth-century woman’s horse riding. It is based on Hermes A painting by the respected designer Henri d ‘Origny in his early years, a lady wearing a high hat and a long red dress riding a white horse, holy and elegant; details such as wrinkles and saddles on the dress are flawless. Only master enamel artisans can master this technology with ease. During the process of firing glazed fire enamel, the artisan also burns tiny gold particles in different enamel layers, causing gold to flow everywhere and enhance the visual depth. Effect. The pocket watch has a red gold case with a diameter of 43mm and is equipped with the H1928 automatic movement. It is equipped with a cigar-colored alligator leather case and leather strap.
Arceau Attelage Céleste.
Enamel firing is already difficult enough. About 30 pieces can be successfully fired. What is even more difficult is how to combine good pattern design with enamel craft to present an appealing work. This year, the brand’s theme is the sky. On the dial of this watch, a beautiful starry sky shines, and the starry sky creates the iconic carriage pattern of the brand. Like Amazones, it is embellished with a large fire and metal foil inlaid with enamel. Crafted. The craftsman first carved the pattern from the Hermes jewelry box on the gold dial, then filled it with transparent blue enamel powder, and then repeatedly fired it in a kiln close to 800 degrees Celsius. At the same time, the craftsman would make star-shaped gold flakes himself During the firing process, they are embedded one by one in the enamel surface, making the picture of the night blue sky more deep and three-dimensional. This is the only Céleste. The case is made of 18mm white gold with a diameter of 41mm. It is equipped with an H1928 automatic movement, with a crocodile leather strap and a white gold pin buckle.
Cape Cod Coup de Fouet
Coup de Fouet stands for whip rope in French. Anita uses a geometric composition to combine the horse’s head and the whip rope. It is displayed on the dial with a micro-painted enamel process. A total of four watches are produced with extremely rich and active colors. Only one for each color system. The difficulty in making is that the entire design is a mirror symmetry, which must be exactly the same from top to bottom and left and right, fully showing Anita’s superb skills in making enamel dials.
The watch is equipped with H1928 automatic movement, white gold case, size 36.5 × 35.4mm, with alligator leather strap and white gold pin buckle. There are four complete sets, each limited to one. Quite low-key dial design, only with the change of light and appreciation angle, can you see the mystery, Hermes’ H-shaped logo and pattern looming, quite mysterious. The dial pattern is inspired by the brand’s silk scarf designed by Dimitri Rybaltchenko in 2010. The neat and precise three-dimensional labyrinth texture is engraved on the platinum dial and then fired with large fire enamel. The difficulty this time is on the uneven dial. Enamel, and the entire dial must be burned uniformly, to create the subtle effect.
The watch is equipped with the H1928 automatic movement. The diameter of the white gold case is 41mm. There are dials in red, blue and gray. The alligator strap is equipped with a platinum pin buckle. Each color is made of only one.
Fully devoted to the manufacture of H1837 automatic movement, with a diameter of 26mm and a thickness of 3.7mm. The substrate is polished with pearl and swirl patterns. The balance wheel is engraved with Geneva ornaments. It can be equipped with a date or small seconds module and can automatically refinish the rotor. Decorated with the brand’s exclusive ‘H’ logo, the frequency is 28,800 vibrations per hour and the power reserve is 50 hours.
In the past, Hermès watches were equipped with movements supplied by famous watchmakers such as Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Ulysse Nardin, but since 2003, the brand has collaborated with the famous movement manufacturer Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier to start designing And develop the brand’s own dedicated movement. In 2006, Hermès officially took a stake in Vaucher, further consolidating and strengthening the ability to manufacture the movement. In fact, the advantage of the self-made movement is that it does not need to be subject to the supplier, and can practice some of the watch ideas. Arceau Time Suspended is a A good example, for Hermès, who has always loved innovation, it is like a fish.
The Dressage Watch
The Dressage series, designed by Henri d ‘Origny, has retained an outstanding barrel-shaped case since its inception in 2003. The design of the lugs into the case makes the exquisite facet chamfer more coherent, which not only highlights the wrist The perfect curve of the watch is a new model of elegant sports watches, and also reminiscent of the nostalgic design of the brand in the 1930s. Hermes DRESSAGE H1837 automatic movement watch
Now that the Dressage series has entered its tenth anniversary, the brand has optimized the classic design a bit, keeping the original aesthetic design as the main tone, and adding noble and light elements, such as the selection of the toffee hands, the hour indexes are sandblasted, and the crown is tighter. The case is affixed to the case; the case is slightly widened from 39mm to 40.5mm, which makes the layered dial design more prominent. Ten new members have been added to the Dressage series this year. I personally think that the rose gold small three-pin style is the most beautiful. The opal silver dial is decorated with vertical line patterns in the center. It is equipped with rose gold plated hours and a small second hand at 6:00. 175 pieces, sold for about 250,000, and a special edition of gray-black dial, the price is unchanged. The stainless steel version, regardless of whether it is a large or small three-pin, is sold for about 85,000.
表 One hundred years of watchmaking
100 years ago, Emile Hermès, the person in charge of Hermès at the time, made a watch for her golden Jacqueline, which was also the first watch in Hermès history; but in fact, it was not a real watch, it was just a belt Put on a pocket watch for your daughter’s outdoor activities. This is not only a gadget of Jacqueline, but also a determination of the brand’s future watchmaking. It also reflects the philosophy that the brand has always adhered to: design related to equestrian activities, superb leather craftsmanship, emphasis on aesthetics and simplicity and practicality.
In the following days, although Hermès had a superb position in leather products and equestrian equipment, he never forgot to make watches. He continued to introduce new styles for hundreds of years. Until 1978, Henri d ‘Origny designed the Arceau series, incorporating elements of equestrian equipment. The case design has become one of the brand’s regular styles.
The Arceau Watch
优化 The Arceau women’s clothing series optimized this year is designed to commemorate the history of watchmaking a century ago. Except for retaining the small seconds at 6:00 position of the Jacqueline “watch”, the rest of the design is in keeping with the times. In terms of appearance, the classic design of Henri d ‘Origny is used, featuring asymmetrical stirrup-shaped lugs at both ends of the round case, which is unique at a glance; the lugs are fastened to the strap, and at first glance, the strap hangs the watch. The case hits a sparkle with a 34mm diameter case. It is equipped with a stainless steel or rose gold case. The diamond-set version is set with 60 diamonds weighing 0.7 carats. Other details are also treated meticulously. The white dial uses the series. Unique italic numerals with a radial pattern on the center and rose-shaped diamonds on the crown. The small seconds hand at 6 o’clock pays tribute to the watch made 100 years ago by Emile Hermès gold Jacqueline Small detail.
Arc Each Arceau is equipped with a crocodile leather strap made by the Brugg leather factory in Switzerland. The padding and stitching technology strictly adhere to the tradition of the brand’s saddle making process. The diamond-stiffened steel version is sold for about 130,000.